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When you consider that most chains start life with 116 links (usually shortened to suit your gearing and bike's geometry) and each link comprises at least 4 parts - two side plates a roller and a pin, that's over 400 moving parts and the most attention they usually get is a squirt with a hose and a bit of lube between rides it's no wonder they wear out and need to be replaced regularly.
As the chain wears, the slack is taken up as "stretch". The accepted wear limit is 1%. If you don't have a specific tool for the job, you can test it by measuring with a ruler graduated in 1/8 of an inch. With 0 lined up on a pin, if the one at the 12" mark has stretched out beyond the 1/8" mark, you need to replace your chain. We have a couple of nifty Park tools available for the job at the shop, and use the professional-grade one for our workshop repair assessments. Ask for a demo next time you're in the shop.
The penalty for ignoring the stretch rule is having to replace your cassette (rear cogs) as well as your chain. The rewards for following this rule are many and include: crisper more reliable shifting, greatly reduced chance of chain suck* and lower overall drivetrain maintenance costs.
You can also extend the life of your chain and drivetrain by trying to run straight chain lines. That means avoiding extreme gear combinations like granny chain ring to smallest rear cog and big ring to largest rear cog. As well as the above rewards, you'll reduce the chance of dropping or bending your chain.
One final tip: when you enter a downhill stretch, shift into the middle or big ring. Much less noise from chain clatter and again less chance of dropping your chain. It's no problem to change down to a smaller chain ring as soon as you hit a flat or uphill stretch.
*Chain suck is when the chain does not release from the chain ring (especially granny) and gets dragged up between the chainstay and chain rings.
Written by: Phil
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